Finding the Correct Transmission

Before you can get started you are going to need a transmission.  If you plan to work with Subarugears you will need to know a few things.

 

Make sure you visit their site first thing before trying to purchase a transmission.  Read up on the process and it will give you a good idea of whats involved.

Subaru Gears

After you read up and decide its the project for you then you will need to figure out the shift linkage.  If you have read up on the Subaru Gears site then you will know to touch base with David Clymer.  Do your research as he may not be the only option out there but for me he was the best.  I highly recommend reading the Samba thread in regards to his work.

Below is a link to a Subaru Transmission listing.  I stuck with the Normally Aspirated USDM cars since I knew that was what I could locate easily.  In addition their ratios are closer together which is good for them and our heavy buses.

Subaru Transmission Listing

 

Below is information that was important to me as it relates to the transmission purchase.  I stuck with 5 speed transmissions and tried to purchase a transmission with as close to the ratios as I could get.  For me I only wanted to upgrade 5th gear and refresh the rest.  SubaruGears will be giving you a new R&P so final drive will be determined by the choices they have.

Which Subaru transmission should I use?

The latest model, lowest mileage one you can afford, and most closely matched to your engine i.e. turbo / aspirated.

TY752…. from 1990 to 1998 can be used. If you need to shorten & seal the TY752 trans you will preferably source a TY754 or later center differential housing. Their slightly different design makes them ideal for shortening, they bolt up to the TY752 split case housing. Alternatively you can purchase the cast Subanose one-piece nosecone from us with the shift rod and reverse lockout mechanism for USD $300.

Non-turbo TY752 transmissions used a push clutch which allows you to retain the VW cable clutch and pull the top of the clutch fork away from the engine. These are not suitable for turbo engines.

Turbo TY752 transmissions used a pull clutch which features a hydraulic slave cylinder to push the top of the clutch fork towards the engine.

Non-turbo TY754 transmissions produced from 1999 to 2004 generally used a push clutch with a hydraulic slave cylinder of a different design that pushes the top of the clutch fork away from the engine.

Turbo TY754 transmissions used a pull clutch with hydraulic slave cylinder like the turbo TY752.

TY755 and later from 2005 generally all used a push clutch for non-turbo and turbo applications. These featured a hydraulic slave cylinder to push the clutch fork away from the engine.

TY755 and later transmissions generally have a pop-out stub axle and cv joint as 1 piece. In order to use the Subaflange, a retrofit to the older ty752/ty754 circlipped stub axle and older seals is required. Please note this on your kit order and we can supply.

Are all the bellhousings the same?

The TY752 bellhousings are a ‘4 bolt’ bellhousing and the TY754 and onwards are an ‘8 bolt’ bellhousing. They simply have 4 more bolt holes fitted, the pattern is the same. They can be mixed and matched.

My transmission has different CV’s / Stub axles

Transmissions manufactured from around 2006 (TY755, TY758) use a ‘push in’ stub axle and CV joint that is one unit. The circlip on this unit is smaller to allow the unit to be pushed in and pulled out of the differential.

Old style separate CV joint New style 1 piece CV joint & stub axle

 

In order to use the Subaflanges, these newer style differentials need to be fitted with the old style stub axles, using a larger circlip to permanently hold the stub axles in the differential. Older style oil seals must be fitted to the transmission case to match up with the size of the older style stub axles.

Alternatively, purchase a pair of our Subastub axles which work with the newer transmissions and seals.